Rosé and a Garden Bench

You can drink rosé any time of the year, but part of its appeal is an association with the months when warmth and light are abundant, colors more saturated, and oceans become swimmable instead of foreboding. The brevity of the season brings with it an intensity and awareness that it is not to be squandered or missed. This connotes something different to everyone - for me, it's dinners in our city garden.

When our building needed a new roof, we had to pull our garden up. It was a timeworn treasure of sea grass, lavender and roses hauled from the greenmarket, a place where we eked out extra seasons from aging cedar planters with wood planks and metal brackets. The new garden is a different species entirely. It’s up to code, approved by engineers, and it can be dissembled and reassembled at will. It’s exquisite, although we miss the well-worn character of the improvised.

While we were rebuilding, I read a book by the Belgian designer and antiquarian Axel Vervoordt called Wabi Inspirations, about the influence of Wabi aesthetics on his work. Wabi philosophy comes from Zen monks who sought solace and contentment in simplicity and restraint, monks who valued the beauty of imperfect objects in their most austere and natural state. Moved by the tranquility of Vervoordt’s spare reflective residential spaces, I contacted the gallery about a Wabi garden bench. The images they sent suggested the aesthetic of the humble and decaying was not limited to objects from the East. It could also be found in a Spanish wedding bench, a French pew, or the 18th century Piedmontese farmhouse bench that now resides in our garden. The garden’s porcelain tiles and the  bench are precisely the same color, but that is where their similarities end. One is the result of talented engineers replicating the look of aged cedar; the other exudes the kind of gravitas that comes from centuries of weathering the elements, evidenced in its irregular veins and raw edges. The difference in the materials brought to mind how we measure quality and character in rosé wines, a category where color is often the only common denominator. 

As with Wabi objects, the best rosés convey simplicity and refinement. They are unpretentious, yet have a story to tell, one with a beginning, middle and end. It might open with aromas of citrus and red berries, then offer a whisper of an impression of fruit on the palate, followed by a wave of refreshing acidity, and a long finish that speaks of either sea or stones, depending on where the vineyard is located. The wines will reflect their fruit source. A rosé made from pinot noir grown in Sancerre might be delicate, while one made with mouvèdre from Bandol is likely to be full of interior architecture.  

Daniel Ravier, the winemaker at the iconic Bandol estate Domaine Tempier once told me that making rosé is easy, but making good rosé is very difficult. This is because what distinguishes a rosé is not the region, grape variety, or price, but the scores of small decisions made in the vineyard and the cellar long before the bottle is opened. Even though certain coastal enclaves have burnished the image of rosé as essential to summer idle, there are pockets of excellence the world over: Domaine Bernard Baudry in Chinon, Chateau de Trinqueverde in Tavel, Finca Torremilanos in Ribera del Duero, Robert Sinskey Vineyards and Matthiasson in the Napa Valley, to name a few standouts.

In Provence, exceptional examples abound from jewel box wineries such as Clos Cibonne along the coast, Domaine de l’Ile on the island Porquerolle, Saint Ser at the foot of Mount Sainte Victoire, and Domaine Tempier. Beware of popular brands that have increased production exponentially rendering the wine you fell for a decade ago less than delicious. Exports from the region to the U.S. have experienced annual double-digit growth for more than twelve years. Some producers have cashed in on the strong trend at the expense of quality. Also, if a rosé smells of marshmallow, candy, pineapple or banana, or if after the first sip you perceive a chemical taste or hollowness where the flavor should be, throw it out. It’s either made from inferior fruit or has been manipulated in the cellar. Once you do find a rosé that pleases you, stock up early.  The coveted ones disappear quicker than June roses.

When it's warm outside, I pair rosés with simple no-cook dinners, such as beef carpaccio inspired by the Roman chef Sandro Fioriti. Ask your butcher to slice beef tenderloin into carpaccio. Arrange the carpaccio in a single layer on individual plates or a large platter. Top the beef with generous portions of shaved parmesan, shaved celery, and finely sliced cremini mushrooms. Finish the dish with salt, pepper and a drizzle of olive oil , and serve it with your favorite market salad and crusty bread.  

Wishing you a peaceful summer.

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10 Rosés

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Clos Cibonne, Rosé Tradition, Côtes de Provence, 2013, $31

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Bernard Baudry, Chinon Rosé, Loire, 2016, $20

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Domaine de l'Ile, Rosé, Porquerolles, Côtes de Provence, 2015, $25

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Matthiasson Wines, Napa Valley Rosé, 2016, $25

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Domaine Tempier, Rosé, Bandol, 2005, $37

Volnay & Pommard on the Holiday Table

I am beginning this bi-weekly journal with Burgundy because it is a touchstone region that is easy to love, yet difficult to know.

A Burgundian wine does not have to be from Burgundy at all. Very often it is an ideal, a poetic model winemakers the world over use as a guidepost. It is a quality most wine lovers can identify, especially those who have had the good fortune to taste a benchmark pinot noir from the Côte de Nuits or chardonnay from the Côte de Beaune. Burgundian wines possess elegance, balance and finesse. They are neither crass, nor monolithic, nor weighed down by the artifice of high alcohol or excessive oak treatment. Most of all, Burgundian wines prepare us for the pleasure of the real thing, the aha moment when you bring a glass of Premier Cru Volnay or Pommard to your lips and realize, or remember, what all the fuss is about.

How do you move from appreciating the wide sweep of wines from Burgundy, and bottles from around the world that capture its spirit, to knowing the unique expressions of Burgundy’s individual towns, called communes or climats. Reading will only get you so far. Tasting one bottle at a time, however lovely, will not provide a reference point. Comparative or technical tastings often seem stilted in a home setting.

Holiday meals, however, especially more intimate gatherings or holiday season dinner parties, offer a stage ripe for exploration of wines that may stretch the budget in other circumstances. The table is set. Someone, maybe you, is already cooking a multi-course seasonal meal. Instead of just pairing wines and foods, why not use the opportunity to take your guests on a journey? A couple of well-chosen bottles of Burgundy can certainly elevate a celebration.

Which brings me back to Volnay and Pommard. Perhaps no two communes illustrate terroir in Burgundy as clearly as these neighboring villages. Like Barbaresco and Barolo in Piedmont, they are unmistakably feminine and masculine expressions of the same grape variety, in this case pinot noir. Drive or bicycle south from Beaune on the Route des Grands Crus and you will arrive in Pommard, an appellation whose relatively low elevation, underground spring water, and sediment composed of a heavy mix of clay and iron yield wines of deep color, intensity and structure. These are appealing, powerful, ageworthy wines that will be especially attractive to fans of collectible cabernet sauvignon.

Upon crossing Pommard, the road makes the gentle climb up the limestone and chalk hill to the village of Volnay. The appellation comprises two such hills with a valley in between and stretches on a north-south axis from Pommard to Meursault. Volnay is home to a cadre of superb producers and more than half of its vineyard land is designated Premier Cru. Its east-facing vineyards produce refined wines with silky tannins and floral bouquets. In the hands of skilled vintners, Volnays more than make up for what they lack in power with lacy complexity and a strong point of view. It is as if, upon crossing a border, the wines reflect the sky instead of the earth.

This year, we will serve Volnay and Pommard at our second Thanksgiving meal, the one we celebrate at home on Saturday evening with friends or family we missed the first time around, the one I shop for on Black Friday after the crowds have left the markets. We will begin with a Volnay from a classic producer such as d’Angerville or Lafarge served alongside a butternut squash soup infused with cardamom. It will be the Volnay’s first act. I am already dreaming about the way the wine’s red berry and violet aromas will mingle with the soup’s sweet spices of the orient. We will be sure to pour it judiciously so that enough remains for everyone to have an ample second glass later in the night. 

It can't be stressed enough that in Burgundy the producer of a wine matters as much as designation or price. Be it village level, Premier or Grand Cru, the wines of the the best domaines are marked by vitality: an integration of acidity, tannins and fruit that awakens the senses. Vitality can be present in a quiet wine or one with an explosive flavor profile. It is a quality you feel in your mouth and crave once it is recognized.  Some very expensive wines from Premier Cru vineyards taste good but still seem heavy and dull. These wines tend to be less interesting on the third sip than on the first. A wine with vitality will give the impression of being lifted and multidimensional. It will hold your attention over the course of the entire meal.  

With the main course we will bring out a Pommard, likely a Les Fremiers from Domaine de Courcel, to go with our small turkey, a gravy made from the jus, herbed stuffing and cranberry-shallot compote. The hope is that the wine’s firm tannins and darker fruits will bring a level of sensuousness to this classic dinner without overpowering its understated flavors.   

The turkey will be followed by a cheese course, at which point we will pour the remainder of the Volnay. Volnay is a wine that transforms in the glass, especially younger vintages. Once the bottle has been opened, it undergoes a kind of alchemy. After an hour or so of exposure to oxygen, the wine often seems substantially fuller and more brooding.

I asked Laurent Drouhin, the US Market Director for Joseph Drouhin, why this happens. He explained that when you open a Volnay, you get very refined and delicate fragrances. Then, as the wine integrates, those fragrances give way to deeper aromas of dark flowers and rich fruit. While the backbone of the wine and the structure of the tannins remain constant, the wine grows more harmonious, giving the impression of being a bit fuller and more intense.  

My hope is that by lingering over these wines at the end of the meal and experiencing the grace and power of the Pommard alongside the increasingly complex and harmonious Volnay, the impressions gleaned from savoring these benchmark wines will be etched into the memory of everyone at our table.. That way, on a cold winter night when looking for something deep and meditative to go with a tagine, perhaps we’ll pull out that Pommard tucked in the back of the cellar. Or maybe we will turn to the ethereal perfumes of a Volnay instead of sake next time we venture out for sushi.

On the practical side, just being able to communicate our experience of these wines to a sommelier or wine merchant will help them guide us toward other wines we might enjoy from Burgundy and beyond. Within the region, the feminine qualities of Volnay are amplified in Chambolle-Musigny and the muscularity of Pommard takes on another dimension in the wines of Gevrey-Chambertin. That is the classic extension of the conversation. Once we begin to have reference points, there are so many unexpected directions it can go in.

Some outstanding Volnay producers include: Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Domaine Michel Lafarge, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Domaine de Montille, and Joseph Drouhin.  In Pommard, exceptional wines can be found from Domaine de Courcel and Domaine Comte Armand. Keep in mind that many of the top Volnay producers make wines in Pommard and vice versa. If you are drawn to the style of a particular domaine, it’s worth trying an array of their vineyard designate wines and their wines from across the appellation's border. 

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10 Wines for the Holiday Table

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Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay, 2009, $66

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Domaine Marquis D'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Champans, 2011, $95

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Domaine Marquis D'Angerville, Pommard Combes Dessus, 2010, $109

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Domaine de Courcel, Pommard 1er Cru, Les Fremiers, 2009, $89

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Joseph Drouhin, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes, 2009, $90

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Cardamom Infused Butternut Squash Soup  

Just as a wine is only as good as the harvest, a soup is only as good as its stock. Preparing the vegetable stock for this soup couldn't be easier. Simply simmer the vegetables in a pot of water while the squash is roasting, and this recipe will yield a pure, clean, satisfying soup that will fill your home with the warming aromas of cardamom and ginger.  

Serves 4

For the squash:

• 6 cups butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• ½ teaspoon sea salt
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the stock:

• 10 cups water
• 3 carrots, peeled
• 2 celery stalks, cleaned and trimmed
• 1 leek, cleaned and trimmed
• ½ yellow onion, peeled

For the soup:

• 1 tablespoon butter
• 3 cardamom pods
• 4 peppercorns
• ¼ inch square fresh ginger, peeled
• ¼ cup dry white wine

Preheat the oven to 375° F

1.  In a large bowl, combine the butternut squash, garlic, olive oil and sea salt. Using a slotted spoon, gently mix the ingredients. Pour the squash onto a sheet tray and roast for 35 minutes. 

2.  Meanwhile, place all the ingredients for the stock in a large pot over high heat.  Once the water boils, lower the heat to medium and simmer for 30 minutes. Let the squash and the stock cool while you begin the soup.

3.  Place a large pot over low heat. Add the butter. While the butter melts, use a mortar and pestle to remove the cardamom seeds from their papery shells and grind the seeds to a powder. Add the cardamom to the butter along with the fresh ginger root. Use the mortar and pestle to grind the peppercorns to a powder as well. Add the ground pepper to the pot. Raise the heat to medium.  When the spices become fragrant, add the wine and turn the heat to high. Whisk constantly until the butter takes on the glistening texture of a smooth sauce. This should take about two minutes.  Turn off the heat. Add the roasted butternut squash and use a slotted spoon to toss the squash until it is evenly coated with the butter and cardamom mixture. 

4.  Add 5 cups of stock to the squash. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Let the mixture cool before puréeing with an immersion or countertop blender.  

5.  Whisk in up to one cup of additional stock into the soup, to adjust the consistency to your liking. If you prefer a finer texture, strain the soup through a sieve.

6.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Serve warm.

7.  The soup is exquisite on its own. If you would like to serve it as a light meal or a more substantial first course, the ginger shrimp garnish is easy to prepare and makes for a winning counterpoint.

For the ginger shrimp garnish:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• ¼ inch square fresh ginger root
• 1 garlic clove, peeled and smashed
• 1 sprig thyme
• ½ lb rock shrimp or 8 large shrimp
• Salt and pepper to taste

1.  Warm a medium-sized sauté pan over low heat.  Add the olive oil, wait 30 seconds then add the ginger root, garlic, and thyme. Let the aromatics steep in the warm oil for two minutes. 

2.  Raise the heat to medium. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper, place them in the pan and sear each side for three minutes, until just cooked through. 

3.  Mound even portions of the rock shrimp in four empty soup bowls (if you are using large shrimp, cut the cooked shrimp into ½ inch pieces and do the same), then ladle a cup of warm soup around the shrimp.  Serve immediately.   

Jasmine Hirsch: In Pursuit of Balance

Jasmine Hirsch says she discovered wine while living and working in New York. This may sound improbable considering she grew up at Hirsch Vineyards, the oldest premium pinot noir vineyard in the West Sonoma Coast, but she explains, “My dad was a grape grower. He started making wine after I went to college.”

She quickly developed a passion for wines with finesse and restraint, especially collectible Burgundy and the rieslings she tasted at Terroir. When she returned to Sonoma to work with her father, Jasmine wondered whether it was possible to make the kind of pinot noir she had grown to love in California. She put the question to Rajat Parr, wine director of the Mina Group and partner at Sandhi, who took out a pen and began writing the names of artisan pinot noir producers on a cocktail napkin. Thus, In Pursuit of Balance was born.

In 2011, Jasmine and Raj organized a group tasting of those wineries at RN74. Four hundred people showed up. The next year they added chardonnay to the roster and held an additional tasting at City Winery in New York. Within a couple of days, it sold out. Now in its fourth year, the annual In Pursuit of Balance tasting has become a reference point for talking about the breadth of styles and growing sophistication of California wine. Participating wineries are chosen in a blind tasting by committee. The only requirement is that they are made in California.

This spring, Jasmine and Raj will travel to London and Stockholm with Jon Bonné, author of The New California Wine, and several winemakers featured in the In Pursuit of Balance program. It is an international road show aimed at breaking the stereotype of California wines as being overly ripe and oaky.

After only a few years in the industry, Jasmine Hirsch has translated her ardor for pinot noir into a vital conversation about the evolving identity of the California wine scene.